*Hmong woman in Laos, 2011. Photo by Thomas Scorch.*

Even after leaving China, Hmong communities continued to identify themselves based on traditional clothing worn by Hmong women. Some of the main groups include White Hmong, Blue/Green Hmong, Striped Hmong, Black Hmong, and Flower Hmong, each named after the colors and patterns of traditional clothing.

Hmoob Dawb (White Hmong) are recognized by the white pleated skirts worn by women. Their clothing typically features less embroidery, giving it a simpler appearance. White Hmong live in Laos and Thailand.

Hmoob Ntsuab (Green Hmong) wear more elaborately embroidered clothing. Traditionally, their skirts were dyed blue or black with batik designs, then decorated with bright, colorful stitching. Embroidery on sleeves, collars, and other elements often featured blue or green tones, which inspired their name. Green Hmong live in Laos and Thailand.

Hmoob Dub (Black Hmong) are known for their indigo-dyeing techniques. Their clothing features dark blue and black jackets and skirts. Black Hmong are also skilled in batik, a traditional wax-resist dyeing technique used to create intricate fabric patterns. Large populations of Black Hmong live in northern Vietnam.

Hmoob Paj (Flower Hmong) wear vibrant, multi-colored clothing with detailed floral patterns, while Hmoob Txaij (Striped Hmong) are recognized by distinctive colored bands on their sleeves or skirts. Striped Hmong live in Laos.

Hmong Americans come from a mix of these groups, with White Hmong and Green Hmong making up the majority of the population. However, Hmong and Hmong American women today often borrow styles from other Hmong groups, including Chinese Hmong and Miao, making it harder to identify someone’s group affiliation by clothing alone. Globalization has further blended traditional styles across regions and generations, complicating how Hmong identities are expressed and interpreted through clothing.

Text by Dr. Vincent Her and Yia Vue